Now, there are various instructions in the manuals for getting the rear calipers out of the suspension cage. None of them seem to work for the later Series II calipers. The problem is that with the handbrake assemblies the units are too big to rotate and remove from the suspension cage. I found it easiest to unbolt and remove the bottom cover from the cage, undo the inner half-shaft u-joints and then detach the main brake calipers from the handbrake calipers and then take the two pieces out one after the other. It was relatively straightforward – but not what it says in the manual.
My calipers still had the tightly and precisely fit factory safety wires on the bolts – so I am guessing they had never been rebuilt nor the rotors replaced (remember this is a very low mileage car). Once the caliper is off the the rotor it is easy to remove the rotor. My rotors were haggard – consistent with no changes or resurfacing in the 30,000 some odd mile life of the car. So it was good I was replacing them at this time. By the way – make sure to save the little fork that holds the main caliper and the handbrake caliper together.
BY THE WAY – Save the old rear rotors. They make perfect spring compressors to compress the rear springs and remove the shocks! I will outline this in the next post.
I cleaned up the exterior of the rear calipers and then used compressed air to push the pistons out. Lucky for me the cylinders and pistons were in great shape and there were no signs of leakage. I cleaned up the calipers, cylinders and pistons and then put in new seals and reassembled. It is a shame that once the suspension is back up in the car you cannot see these inboard calipers – they have the coolest Girling Brake symbol with an arm and hand forming a G.